COLOR Films developed in B/W chemicals

Ive tryed devolping color film before in Black and White Developer with no luck.. I found some people who had sucess with this so I gave it another try.. I used Kodak Ultra Max 400.. Ilford 3 Developer..

Devoloper Ilford 3.
68 degrees for 15min
Ilford Stopbath 3min
Ilford Fixer 5min

COLOR Films developed in B-W
This one was soaked in hydrogen peroxide for 3min
This one was soaked in Bleach for 3min

This one was soaked in hydrogen peroxide for 3min
This one was soaked in hydrogen peroxide for 3min


Caffenol C / Lomography

My second attempt to develop film using Caffenol C, I used my Contina Camera that I got off ebay for 5$. This camera has a Lomography feel and look to it. I used a different formula then the first time I tried to develop black and white film using coffee. This time the film came out much better then the first time I tried it. A deeper darker grain. I did let it just stand develop for 3 min after agitating for 9 min, The first time I just developed it for 9 min with no standing.

1950s Zeiss Ikon Contina Vintage Rangefinder 35mm Film Camera 526/24 45mm Novar

Film I used.

Kodak 100 Tmax

Caffenol-C film developer
Water 8 oz
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda 2½ tsp (level)
Vitamin C powder ¼ tsp (level)
Folger’s Coffee Crystals 4 tsp (slightly rounded, NOT decaf)

Developing time.
9 min agitate 3 times every min
3 min stand
Stop with room temp water.


Let solution stand for about 5 minutes

I use Iford rapid fixer

Flushed with room temp water 3 times
final flush water with automatic dish-washing liquid.
8oz water with 1 tsp dish-washing liquid

I use a traditional stainless steel tank.

Caffenol ” Coffee as a Devolper”

There are community of people who use coffee as a developer. So I just had to try it for my self. You will still need a fixer though. I used Caffenol C. I was happily surprised with the outcome of the photos when doing this for the first time.

Caffenol film developer
Water 8 oz
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda 2 tsp (level)
Folger’s Coffee Crystals 4 tsp (slightly rounded, NOT decaf)

Mixing instructions: Mix soda until completely dissolved and solution is clear. Add coffee, mix until all grittiness is gone and solution is uniform, let stand 5-10 minutes until microbubbles clear. Use within 30 minutes.

Dilution: Use undiluted

Starting point development time: 30 mins

Notes: Gives imagewise stain and general (fog) stain.
Caffenol-C film developer
Water 8 oz
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda 2½ tsp (level)
Vitamin C powder ¼ tsp (level)
Folger’s Coffee Crystals 4 tsp (slightly rounded, NOT decaf)
Caffenol-C-M (+i) film developer
Water 500ml
Washing Soda 27g
Ascorbic Acid 8g
Coffee Crystals 20g
Iodine Salt 5g

Here are my first attempts at doing caffenol developing. I did the Caffenol C.

I used this formula.

6oz water

add 5tea spoon of instant coffee

add half teaspoon Vitamin C power(Ascorbic Acid)

6oz water

3 and half teaspoon of washing soda also called soda ash.Na2CO3
combine both..


developer 9min

fix 5min

Camera Olympus OM 1

Vintage Effect Photography

I think one of my favorite things to do in Photoshop is vintage photography effects. I guess its because I just love old cameras. So if you have any old cameras laying around the house not bring used send them to me and ill bring them back to life. I’m always working on different types of filters in Photoshop and Lightroom to give my digital and film photos that feeling of a time lost in photography.

Here are a few photo i did with that vintage look to them.

This image is not one that I did but I do like the vintage look of it so I’m going to work on a filter to simulate this look.

Daguerreotype Camera

Daguerreotype Camera was the first commercially successful photographic process. The image is a direct positive made in the camera on a silvered copper plate.
The process was developed by Louis Daguerre together with Joseph Nicéphore Niépce. Niepce had produced the first photographic image in the camera obscura using asphaltum on a copper plate sensitised with lavender oil that required exposures as long as eight hours.
The image in a daguerreotype is often described as being formed by the amalgam, or alloy, of mercury and silver because mercury vapor from a pool of heated mercury is used to develop the plate; but using the Becquerel process (using a red filter and two-and-a-half stops extra exposure) daguerreotypes can be produced without mercury, and chemical analysis shows that there is no mercury in the final image with the Bequerel process. This leads to questioning the theory that the image is formed of amalgam with mercury development.
Exposure times were later reduced by sensitising the plate with other silver halides: silver bromide and silver chloride, and by replacing the Chevalier lenses with much larger, faster lenses designed by Joseph Petzval. A reduction in camera size and the size of the image will always result in more light reaching the image plane and consequently reduced exposures, and a small metal camera that produces small circular images was made by Voigtländer.

This is a Daguerreotype image from the Library of Congress.

Back to Film

Its been a long time since I used film ever since I got my first HP 2 megapixel camera. When I look back on that piece of crap of a camera it started me on using Digital camera because of the instant photo you get from digital. And with having kids it made it easy to capture images of them and not have to wait to develop them I could just put them in my computer and print them. But its just loosing something you can only get from film that natural photography feel in the photos. There was a point I taught I would never go back to film. As I keep working on my art I find my self being pulled back to film and developing at home. I’m a big fan of black and white photography so developing is fairly easy to do at home. Here are a few images I took with an Olympus OM 1 I got off the internet for 20$.. You can get 35mm cameras very cheap from places like ebay, craigslist and pawn shops.

These photos were taken with Ilford HP5 plus 400 iso.

Argus C4 f/2.8 50mm Coated Cintar Lens

I got a Argus C4 that was produced in the 1950’s off of ebay for 6$ when I received it the shutter was broken so the camera did not work. but it had a very clear f/2.8 50mm Coated Cintar lens. So I drilled a hole in a body cap to my Nikon D50 and attached the lens.. It makes a very soft blur macro lens I kinda like, Definitely something fun to play with. I think I’m going to get a bellow for it to see how it preforms.. Here are some of the photos I took and adjusted in Photoshop..

Quinn Jacobson, The Wet Plate Collodion Process

Jacobson used the photographic technique known as the wet plate collodion process in creating his images.

Wet plate collodion photography, developed in the 1850s, is fairly primitive in photographic term. It competed with daguerreotype and other technical developments of the time, and by the 1880s it had all but disappeared in favor of dry plates.


I got a Brookstone iConvert a few years ago for Christmas but never used it, I took it out of the box looked at it and that was about it.. But i recently decided to go through my old photos to get back at all the people who have posted not the most flattering images of me on Facebook, Because I know who you are and trust me I have Pictures of all of you. LOL. So I pulled out my iConvert to go through the hundreds of negatives I still have that survived my house fire, and I was surprisingly impressed at the quality of the scan. In no way does the images look like they did when the were devolved but with a little work in Photoshop they are a decent quality. You also have to take in mind that the film is over 20 years old so it has degraded and even if I took it to a lab the original quality is gone. So in closing if I were to rate it on a scale from 1 to 10 I would give it a 7.

At the time of this post Amazon was selling it for around 72.00$

Here are a few scanned photos.

Fujicolor Superia Reala 100

Fujicolor Superia Reala 100 I dont shoot much landscape photography but I have found that a lot of photographers find this to be a great fill for shooting landscape and nature photographs. There is a very tight grain and high color saturation, experts say, and it performs well in varied types of light but best in natural light. Fujicolor Superia Reala 100 can easily be converted to slide format. From all I have found out about this film outdoors seams to be the where this film excels in. Indoor usage of this film in fair to poor lighting conditions can cause the film to return photos that’s colors can be dull or flat and in some lighting conditions a greenish cast. This film has a high red tone not suitable for portraits.

So if your looking for a film to try for a different look in your landscape photography give it a try. But I personally am going to stay from it..